Hiking South Dakota with Trailmonkey

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South Dakota
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Badlands appear throughout the West: Strangely eroded hills and gullies alternating with grassy plains. It wasn’t too long ago that a man would be called crazy for traveling through this twisted land. Even the nomadic Sioux Indians, once the masters of the Plains, were careful to avoid the broken prairie. To them, the region was ‘mako sica’—land bad. More than 6,000 square miles of badlands cover portions of the Dakotas and Nebraska. About 13 percent of this land, or 243,508 acres, has been preserved in Badlands National Park-the biggest and baddest of all the barren landscapes. Crossing the badlands today takes no more effort than stopping to fill up the gas tank, but many of the conditions that thwarted early travelers are still the same. Summer temperatures can exceed 100°F, and winter winds are bitter. Even with spring torrents and summer thunderstorms, average rainfall is only 15 inches, just enough to sustain the short grasses. Such apparent inhospitality, however, supports a variety of wildlife that has adapted to the harsh environment. Prairie dogs, coyotes, badgers, porcupines, prairie rattlesnakes, and golden eagles are common. The area’s large plains mammals, such as elk, wolf, and grizzly bear, were doomed by the westward migration of settlers, but mule deer, whitetail deer, pronghorn antelope, bighorn sheep, and a healthy herd of 300 to 350 freeroaming bison remain

Getting Away:

There are only 12.5 miles of established, marked trails in the park. Hiking off-trail across the grasslands is surprisingly easy, but the prairies are interspersed with ranges of classic badland architecture-pinnacles and ravines that are crumbly, difficult to cross, and liable to develop into a wet, concretelike ooze when it rains. In the North Unit, the Sage Creek Wilderness (64,250 acres) provides isolated backpacking opportunities. About two-thirds of the area is mixed-grass prairie, representing the largest prairie wilderness in the (United States. Backpacking in the Stronghold Unit (133,000 acres) is challenging and rewarding if the goal of the trip is solitude and scenery, but visitors to this area need a four-wheel-drive vehicle and should be aware that traditional Sioux tribal activity-which includes hunting, mining, and cattle grazing- is allowed.

Camping:

Generally the backcountry is used very little. Backpackers can camp anywhere in the park not visible from park roads and at least one-half mile from any road or trail. There are no requirements for permits or registration, but you are encouraged to stop at the Ben Reifel Visitor Center where rangers can help you with planning and directions. Because there are so few trails, topographic maps are essential. The best time to visit is probably fall, although early blizzards are possible. Spring days can be pleasant, but April I and May are often rainy No water is potable in the Badlands; not even boiling, treating, or filtering it make it fit to drink. You must pack at least a gallon of water per person per day. Campfires are not allowed, nor are they practical. Bring your stove for cooking.

Special Notes:

Have a healthy respect for bison. Watching a herd of the magnificent creatures on the windswept horizon is to feel linked to the past, but looking one in the eye as it charges is to feel sheer terror. They can weigh a ton and sprint 30 mph. Be alert, and don’t camp near their trails.

‘The Stronghold Unit is a section of the park managed in agreement with the Oglala Sioux Tribe. ‘this section contains the site of the last ghost dance before the Wounded Knee massacre. Access to the site is across private property, and permission is required by the landowners; see the staff at the White River Visitor Center for details.

Access:

Ben Reifel Visitor Center is on Rt. 240, south of 1-90 at Exit 131. White River Visitor Center (the Stronghold Unit) is on Rt. 27, south of Rt. 44, and 60 miles southeast of Rapid City.

For More Information:

Badlands National Park, P.O. Box 6, Interior, SD 57750; (605) 433-5361. Mail-order services for books, maps, and other publications related to the Badlands heritage is provided by the Badlands Natural I history Association, P.O. Box 6B, Interior, SD 57750. Limited part-time and seasonal volunteer opportunities exist in the park if you’re looking for a service-oriented getaway. Write the VIP coordinator in care of the park.

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